Tags
Adventure, An American in Italy, Aperitivo, Assunta Madre, Bagels in Italy, Bakery House, Bar del Fico, Bonci Pizzarium, Brunch, Campo de' Fiori, Cappuccino, Castel Sant'Angelo, Change, Ciampini, Culture, D.O.M. Hotel Roma, Da Francesco, Dal Toscano, DOM Hotel, Eating in Italy, Espresso, Europe, Expat Living, Food, Gli Italiani, Gonfalone, Gusto, Hosteria, Italian Tradition, Italians, Italy, Jewish Ghetto, La Dolce Vita, La Rosetta, Life, Lists, Matricianella, Menu, Paris, Pasta, Piazza Farnese, Pierluigi, Pizza, Pizzeria, Pseudo Foodie, Reccomendations, Restaurants, Roma, Roma "to do", Rome, Rome Recommendations, Rome Recs, Rosati, Roscioli, San Pietro, Sant'Eustachio, Seafood, Sights, Spanish Steps, The Deer Club, The Perfect Bun, Three Days in Rome, Tiber, Tiberina, Tour, Tourism, Trastevere, Trattoria, Travel, Travel Guide, Vatican City, Via Giulia, Walking Itineraries, When in Rome
Two years ago, I published a post entitled “Three Days in Rome,” highlighting my favorite haunts and hangouts in this wonderful city that I happen to call home. Shortcut here: https://morganinrome.wordpress.com/2012/11/16/three-days-in-rome/
Italy is a country that although is not unchanging, is slow to alter or transform itself. The customs, the places, the people. Italians hold tradition close to their hearts and therefore, are less willing to let go of certain practices and conventions than other cultures. This is not necessarily a negative aspect of the country- some things should never change. And here, some things never do. A large number of several of the most notable establishments- hotels, restaurants, institutions, organizations, shops, cafes and businesses- have been in existence for longer than I have been here on this earth, to say the least.
I now write my newest recommendations with two more years of discovery, two years of meeting new people and evaluating new places. And although many of the establishments here in Rome have stayed exactly the same, I, on the other hand, have changed. Groups of friends have swapped or been replaced, my tastes and preferences have transformed- my scope has widened and my palette has expanded.
Therefore, I thought it was a good time to overhaul my list of recommendations in order to include some of my new favorites- some of which have recently made it to the scene here in Rome and many others that have been here all along- just waiting for me to discover them.
For Breakfast:
Italians don’t really “do” breakfast. They do coffee. And they do cornetti (the Italian version of a croissant, yet lacking the buttery flakiness of the French species- more like sweetened bread, rolled into the shape of a croissant).
In any case…check out any or all of the below cafés for a great shot of espresso or warm cappuccino.
Cafés:
- Ciampini In piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina- one of my favorite Roman piazzas for a coffee or shopping. The piazza boasts stores ranging from Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, Louboutin and CarShoes, to Bonpoint, Nespresso and YSL. http://www.ciampini.com/en/
- Tazza D’oro A classic roman coffee shop- good coffee, good atmosphere, central location. http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
- Rosati Great for people watching, right in Piazza del Popolo… and their chocolate muffins are really good when fresh. http://www.barrosati.com
- Sant’Eustachio Probably the best coffee in all of Rome- and a café with a history almost as rich as its roast. http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it
As I mentioned in an earlier post, during my pregnancy I was only interested in eating “American food.” i.e. mostly crap. But I did come across three establishments well versed in satiating my demands for bagels and cream cheese, buttermilk pancakes with sugary syrup and a variety of omelets accompanied by large mugs of American coffee (also known as watered down espresso).
So if this is what you are looking for, either stick to breakfast in your hotel or go to
- The Perfect Bun. Brunch only on Saturdays and Sundays. Exciting bustling atmosphere, buffet-style American brunch with more choices than you know what to do with. http://www.theperfectbun.it/Risto/
- The Bakery House. I don’t love the area but it’s a sweet little café with everything from croissant sandwiches and bagels to cupcakes and Red Velvet Cake by the slice. And btw, THEY DELIVER! http://www.bakeryhouse.it
- Haus Garten Bagel Bar. It’s in Piazza Monte Grappa, which not really my area. But the bagels are great, the place is cute, and it’s worth a shot if your looking for something other than bready croissants and double espresso’s after a long night of drinking. http://www.hausgarten.it
Otherwise, you could go the British route and grab a seat at Babbington’s, right next to the Spanish Steps for (delicious yet incredibly overpriced) scones, eggs, sausages, and some of the best baked goods in the city center. It’s also a tea shop. http://www.babingtons.com
Aperitivi (pre-dinner drinks and snacks)
- Hotel Rafael– a hotel around the corner from Piazza Navona with one of the best views of Rome from the rooftop terrace. Not to be missed. http://www.raphaelhotel.com/the-terrace-raphael-hotel-in-rome.htm
- Hotel Locarno– A charming hotel situated behind Piazza del Popolo with a nice aperitivo scene. Good drinks, decent food (mostly fried, but does the trick), chic crowd and central location. http://www.hotellocarno.com
- D.O.M. Hotel Roma– Now, before I go into a long description of the abundant positive attributes of this hotel, bar, and restaurant- let me preface this by saying that I am 100%, unequivocally, completely biased. DOM is my husband’s hotel and therefore- it is extremely close to my heart. At the same time, being as objective as humanly possible, it is one of the coolest new spots in Rome and DEFINITELY worth a visit (and it’s not just me saying that- Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, and numerous other international publications agree as well). Here’s the site: http://domhotelroma.com
Restaurants:
Most places on my list are typical Roman Trattorias, being that I often experiment in my own kitchen with raw, vegan, organic stuff… because when I do go out, which is about four times a week, I like to stuff my face with with great pasta, yummy wine, and all the fixings for a deliciously satisfying characteristically Italian meal. Below is a disorderly, yet meticulously tested- tried and true list of what I consider to be the best dining establishments in Rome.
- Da Pietro. Neighborhood favorite. Very busy, friendly and familiar. Great pasta, great meat, and Pietrino (the owner)’s mom makes all the desserts fresh- try the cherry crostata. http://www.hostariadapietro.com
- Dal Toscano. Another much-loved local preference- the restaurant is located a bit outside of the city center in Prati, but all Romans know it for its delicious food. I normally order an insalata di ovuli (when in season) fagioli all’uccelletto, and Pici all’aglione. http://www.ristorantedaltoscano.it
- Matricianella. Still, after all of these years, my most beloved trattoria in Rome. Order everything. http://www.matricianella.it
- Caminetto. Again, a bit outside the historic center but great food, always busy, large and very very “Roman.” They have a great appetizer- caprese calda. http://www.caminettoroma.com
- Da Francesco. Right in the noisy and exciting Piazza del Fico, next to the famous/infamous bar del Fico but with better food. Good pizza, heaping platters of pasta, and pretty much anything else your heart desires when in Rome. http://www.dafrancesco.it
- Roscioli. The best food in Rome. Possibly the best food in all of Italy. Hands down. (Three fundamental rules for eating at Roscioli: make reservations way in advance, don’t get upset if the wait staff treats you like shit – it’s just the way it is, and order the burrata.) http://www.salumeriaroscioli.com
- La Gensola. Great little restaurant in Trastevere. Hidden gem with delectable food and warm atmosphere. http://www.osterialagensola.it
- La Barchetta Warm atmosphere in winter, decent to good food, great wine list, fantastic desserts that they bring in multiple jars to the table….don’t go there if you don’t plan to over-do it on the sugar. They don’t have a site. Google it.
- Maccheroni. Just really good pasta. http://www.ristorantemaccheroni.com
For more of a scene:
- Casa Copelle. New hot-spot designed by the same guy who did Hôtel Costes in Paris. Food is pretty good but most people go more for the atmosphere than for the flavor. http://www.casacoppelle.it
- The Deer Club @ D.O.M. Hotel Roma. Obviously. http://domhotelroma.com
- Oliver Glowig. Inside the Aldrovandi hotel, Villa Borghese. Two Michelin stars. Great take on a fusion of Italian tradition and culinary art. http://www.oliverglowig.com
For seafood:
- La Rosetta– famous chef Massimo Riccioli’s restaurant with ridiculously fresh fish, oysters all year round (and if I may add, as a vegetarian and friend of Massimo’s- he makes an excellent plate of pasta as well!) http://www.larosetta.com
- Pierluigi. Terrific ambiance, request a table in the piazza if it warm enough to eat outside. Tasty food- from carpaccio and catalana to a selection of pastas. And the restaurant is never, ever empty…good cocktail bar as well. http://www.pierluigi.it/index.php?lang=en
- Assunta Madre. Hip crowd, cool atmosphere, tons and tons of fish- cooked and raw, in pasta and not, good wine list, recently opened in Mayfair in London, which has to say something… http://www.assuntamadre.com
Pizza:
I still stand by my long-time favorite Pizzeria Gusto http://www.gusto.it However, I have recently discovered Bonci Pizzarium. And this discovery changed my life. I only regret that it took me this long to acquaint myself with Mr. Bonci. So…Bonci is this tiny, ugly, pizza-by-the-slice, with no seating, out of the way place. But it is soooo yummy. Being that there is no seating and it is not really in an area I like to frequent- when the “Bonci mood” strikes, we generally hop on the motorino, take a whirl around the Vatican, park outside of the pizzarium, wait about 30 minutes in line, then buy out all the marinara and margherita pizza to the chagrin of the customers awaiting their turn behind us…wrap it up in boxes and fly home to sit on the couch watching either True Detective or House of Cards on demand and stuffing ourselves with Bonci’s exceptional pizza. Now, just to be clear- Bonci’s pizza is one of those things I would put on my “stuck on a deserted island and only have one thing to eat” or “last meal” lists. Do. Not. Come. To. Rome. And. Miss. Bonci. http://www.gbonci.it
To see and to do:
My most recent forays into roman tourism have come in the form of exceedingly lengthy walks. Since the birth of my child, I no longer have the desire to run around, I barely ever get the chance to breeze through the shops on Via Condotti during the random shopping sprees of old, or jump from one location to the next whether on business meetings or pleasure. So…what do I do? I walk. Slowly. Pushing a baby carriage with one arm, pulling on the leash of my large disobedient dog with the other- and still, after five years, I continue to marvel at one of the richest cities (in terms of beauty, architecture and history) and its jewels.
Walking Itineraries:
- Piazza del Campidoglio to the Fori Imperiali (imperial forums), Coloseum, arch of Constantine, Palatine Hill, and finally ending up at the Pantheon.
- The trifecta: Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps) to Piazza Navona to the Trevi Fountain.
- Villa Borghese and Piazza del Popolo to Campo de’ Fiori and finally making the way across the river to Trastevere.
- Jewish ghetto to Trastevere: Largo di Torre Argentina, Piazza Mattei, Portico d’Ottavia, The Synagogue, Isola Tiberina (the small island in the middle of the Tiber), and finally Trastevere.
- Trastevere walk: Ponte Sisto, Piazza Trilussa, Porta Settimiana, Villa Farnesina, Palazzo Corsini (rich with art ranging from Titian to Caravaggio) to the Orto Botanico…botanical garden (even though I am not a fan of gardens, this one is pretty great) and finally Santa Maria in Trastevere. You can also simply lose yourself in the maze of small streets in the heart of Trastevere.
- Piazza San Pietro, Basilica di San Pietro, the Vatican Museums (if you have interest and/or time), to Castel Sant’Angelo and finally to ponte Sant’Angelo. When you are done, take a stroll along the Tiber…in either direction.
- This walk starts at Via Giulia but can be a continuation from Castel Sant’Angelo, depending on energy levels and light in the sky: Via Giulia, Florentine Church, Palazzo Sacchetti and Chiesa di San Biagio, Oratorio del Gonfalone, Palazzo Ricci, Palazzo Farnese and finally to Campo de’ Fiori, which has a great market if you make it there early enough in the day.
*of course, each of these itineraries is filled with historically important facades, palazzi, monuments and works of art. It would take me far to long to include everything of note in this post so my best advice is to purchase a guidebook, research any of the plentiful online resources, or do as I do: walk, stare, gape, marvel, and once in a while snap a picture or write down a street name in order to later figure out what it is you were admiring. Remember, there is no right way and there is no wrong way to experience the eternal city.
Now, I do have one final important point to make. In my original “Three Days in Rome” post, I mentioned that Rome is “almost as good as Paris” when referring to evening walks along the river. Now, however, after another two good years in this city, seeing it through different eyes – the eyes of my baby girl- innocent and fresh… I would like to rescind my earlier opinion and clearly state that Rome, is in fact, way better than Paris. 😉 Enjoy.